As seen in Speedboat Magazine’s
Jan/Feb 2021 Issue.
Changing
Cores
Dear Bob:
I recently rebuilt an 8:1 compression 572-c.i. big-block engine with a 10-71 blower set up to run 7 psi boost. I installed an older, low time SuperChiller that had been stored dry and was tested with no issues. I have eight hours on the engine now. I watched a video where you talk about the old style 16 fins-per-inch core and a now available newer offering that has 24 fins-per-inch that you recommended for most pleasure boat applications. I am having no issues at this time, but wanted to know if changing to that new style core is something I should consider? I didn’t install an inlet air temperature gauge, so I don’t know what the inlet temperature is now but everything else indicates the engine runs nice and cool.
Anthony Matera
Mesa, AZ
24 FPI Core (left) versus 16 FPI Core.
Not too long after we purchased the SuperChiller company, we took several steps to improve the product. This included extensive testing with different core designs and fin densities. The end result was that we developed a core that has directional plates to prevent air from passing around the core, and settled on two different fin density configurations. We found through testing that when engines are set up to run boost less than 10 psi, the 24 fins-per-inch (FPI) core is beneficial because it results in a cooler charge and increased horsepower. For engines that boost more than 10 psi, (especially with large displacement engines) we select the 16 FPI core to minimize the flow restriction. The bottom line is that with the lower boost, horsepower gains are observed with the 24 FPI core because the air is slowed down slightly while being exposed to more cooling fins.
SuperChiller parts.
One of the benefits of running an inter-cooler is increased engine reliability due to lower combustion heat that can result in engine damage. Excessive combustion heat can damage pistons and valves. An obvious benefit from using a SuperChiller on an engine like yours is that the power gain is likely above 100 hp.
Cores and re-seal kits are available separately. Replacement is simple.
Relocate the Mercury Shift Bracket
Dear Bob:
I purchased a set of the custom tall valve covers to clear my rocker arms. These are a very nice piece and I love the way they look. However, with this added valve cover height, has anyone had any issues with the MerCruiser shift bracket interfering and being unable to mount to the stock exhaust riser assembly? If so, do you have an offset/extension bracket that can be purchased to raise the bracket assembly up to clear these valve covers? Thanks in advance!
Mark McGahey
Phoenix, AZ
A typical relocation of the shift bracket.
It is very common to have the Mercury Shift Bracket not mounted on the engine. More builders than not routinely install the Mercury Shift Bracket on a stringer along side the engine or on the transom.
In your case, Mark, you might consider finding a place where the Mercury Shift Bracket can be installed where the cable easily reaches from the helm and the drive. Usually, if it is mounted on a stringer, #14 stainless steel truss head screws may be used with silicone sealer. Shown in the pictures at right are a couple of mounting options.
For your chance to be featured in Teague On Tech, email your questions for Bob Teague to Ray@speedboat.com.
Check out the Teague Tech Library for diagrams and schematics of how to correctly install and perform various repair and upgrade projects. At Teague Custom Marine, we don’t ‘just sell parts’, we know how to install everything we sell. When it’s time to tackle a project, count on Teague Custom Marine to have the part and the answer.